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He closes his eyes as a small wave gently lifts and washes over him. He feels as though he is a part of nature. The Sun gazes down at the people floating around the blue and white sea as its waves reach out to touch the golden white sand.
The mist in his eyes from the salt water stays only a moment and he looks out towards the horizon for the incoming waves. They roll by with therapeutic frequency. The temperature of the water raises his skin in warning and anticipation. He takes a long deep breath and releases it through half a smile. A wave grows in the distance with a promise of adventure. He dares to accept and turns to launch himself. But he doubts himself. In the last moment he pulls out of the wave.
An adjacent bodysurfer, more daring than he, takes on the wave, taming it as it approaches the shore. He rejects the impulse of his first thought, instead choosing to take inspiration from the success of his fellow wave catcher. He looks back to the ocean and it responds with another wave. Bigger. More challenging. He knows he will catch this one. It nears him. The fear kicks in but he kicks out. In an instant he is lifted to its peak. For a moment not measured by time he is free. His whole life justified by a flash of liberation that is beyond the confines of memory.
The wave breaks with a violent fury. Abandoning the support it once gave him and letting him fall beneath its wrath. His mouth and nose and lungs are intoxicated by the salty water. Each second lasts an age as his body begs for oxygen. He tumbles through the darkness, devoid of all senseless security.
Suddenly his foot touches something. Something sandy! And his other foot steps in front. And again, each step absorbing the force of his wave. He awakes to the world. It all comes back to him as the ocean loses its stranglehold and concedes him back to it all. His footing holds the familiar pattern and he emerges from the water still standing, short of air as the salt n’ sand clear from his waterlogged head.
He hunches for a moment in contemplation before stretching out his body with a deep breath. Turning to face the ocean again he closes his eyes and feels the warmth of the giant star in the sky. He opens them. A million imitations of the Sun reflect off the pulsating ripple of the ocean as it stretches out towards the horizon. He smiles and runs back out to let the next wave wash through him.
- Eden (while listening to Embryonic - The Flaming Lips, inspired by BOTM)